No block/pump number. BEB replacement - Thread with wide ranging good discussion on possible causes. 1HD-T replacement ACL bearings at 150,000kms minor pitting, 1HD-FTE over 200,000kms OEM look fine, 1HD-T 140,000kms ACL replacements with minor pitting. No block/pump number references: ACL rod bearings after 150k kms.
Before Euro 1, the predecessors of the 1HD-T had a full range of thermostats: 76-90, 82-95, 88-100. The 1HD-FT inherited from the 1HD-T this same single, unique "African" 76-90 thermostat. As a result of the measures described above, the 1HD-FT engine complied with the Euro 2 standard.
Can anyone explain the change is how the valves are adjusted on the 1HZ and 1HD-T vs the 1HD-FT? Is one easier than the other?
Guide to tuning your 1HD-T or 1HD-FT or VE rotary injection pump mudgudgeon
Guide to tuning your 1HD-T or 1HD-FT or VE rotary injection pump
My 1HD-FTE conversion was running great for the last year but I recently had to do battle with an exceptionally frustrating problem. Sometime in February, the truck developed a habit of just randomly shutting off while driving - not cool.
Regarding the 1HD-T injector removal, I will definitely be trying to remove the injectors using the PB Blaster/wrench method BEFORE I default to the slide hammer method.
Why? For example, Toyota 1HD-FT vs 1HD-FTE. Is the extra claimed power and 'tunability' actually worth it or more wank factor? How far do you want to trade off long-term reliability vs short-term power gains?
Hey folks, I'm working to adjust the valves on my 1HD-FT, and was wondering a few things. Hoping to get some advice from folks who have done this before. The backstory here is that I went to replace my valve cover gasket, and thought I'd adjust the valves while I was in there - but I'm quickly...